Loading…
Learn
Pipes, bubblers, bongs, rigs, bangers and vaporizers. What each one does, how they differ, and what to think about before you buy. Stocking the best brands such as Puffco, Pax, Yocan, NWTN Home, and MJ Arsenal, with all the necessary accessories. Scroll to learn something, or order Herb Vaporizers and Glass now and have it in hand momentarily.
You are going to smoke or vaporize one of two things: flower or concentrate. And unless you are rolling it up, it is going through either a piece of glass or an electronic device.
That is the whole map. Everything on this page is one of four combinations.
Glass with flower is the oldest and simplest path. A bowl, a flame, and a piece to draw through. Hand pipes, bubblers and bongs.
Glass with concentrate is a dab rig and a banger. Same idea, different heat, much smaller piece.
Electronic with flower is a dry herb vaporizer. It heats the flower without setting it on fire.
Electronic with concentrate is a wax pen, a 510 cart battery, or an electric rig.
The split that matters underneath all of it is combustion versus vaporization. A flame puts the material somewhere north of 900 degrees and it burns. You get smoke, which is plant matter that has combusted, along with everything that combustion produces. A vaporizer holds the material at a few hundred degrees instead, hot enough to release the compounds in it, not hot enough to set it alight. You get vapor, which tastes noticeably different and leaves behind a spent brown material rather than ash.
Neither one is a small difference in flavor. They are different processes and they produce different results from the same starting material. Which one you want drives every other choice on this page.
Everything here is available for delivery across Miami, alongside our THC and hemp products.
Glass Pipes and Water Pipes
Hand pipes, water pipes and bubblers in durable borosilicate glass, for tobacco and hemp. Shop glass with delivery in Miami.
The simplest piece there is. A bowl to hold flower, a stem to draw through, and usually a carb.
The carb is the small hole on the side. You cover it while you light and draw, then release it to pull fresh air through and clear the smoke out of the chamber. That is the entire mechanism, and it is why a pipe with a carb clears faster and hits cleaner than one without.
The shapes you will actually see:
A bubbler is a hand pipe with a water chamber in it. Same size class, same portability, but the smoke passes through water on the way up.
What the water actually does is cool the smoke and catch loose particulate. That is a real difference and you will feel it on the throat immediately. What it does not do is filter out much of anything else. Water cools and traps ash; it is not a purification step. Judge a bubbler on whether you want a smoother, cooler draw in something you can still hold in one hand, because that is what you are buying.
The trade is cleaning. Water means residue, residue means a piece that needs attention every week or so instead of every month.
A bong is the same principle as a bubbler, scaled up and stood on a table.
The parts, from the bottom:
A percolator is a second piece of glass inside the bong that breaks the smoke into smaller bubbles before it reaches the water. More bubbles means more surface area, which means more cooling.
The thing nobody selling you a bong will say: more percolators is not better. Each one adds drag. A piece with four percs takes real lung effort to clear, and every one of them is another cavity that gets dirty and another set of slits to clean. One good perc beats three mediocre ones. Two is plenty for almost anyone.
A rig is a bong built for concentrate, and the differences all come from one fact: concentrate vapor needs much less cooling than smoke does, and it carries flavor that dilutes fast in a large chamber.
So a rig runs small. Short neck, small water chamber, minimal water. A tall bong with a lot of airspace between the banger and your mouth will give you a thin, flat hit off a dab that tastes like nothing, because the vapor has spread out and cooled too far before it arrives.
Rigs also tend toward simple percolation. One small perc, often a recycler, and that is it. On a rig you want efficient percolation, not maximum percolation, because every extra chamber is more airspace diluting the vapor.
Ten years ago a dab rig looked like a bong. Full height, big chamber, sometimes multiple percs. That is largely gone.
The market moved to compact rigs, roughly four to seven inches, and it moved for a reason that turned out to be correct. A shorter vapor path means the terpenes reach you before they have time to degrade. Less water means less cooling, which for concentrate is what you want. Smaller chambers heat faster and clean easier. Side by side with the same concentrate, a small rig simply tastes like more.
Early mini rigs were not good. Splashback was constant and the percolation was an afterthought. The current generation solved both, and at this point the compact rig is the default rather than the alternative.
Two things trip people up. The first is the 10mm joint, covered further down, which is not what you would expect coming from the flower side. The second is that going smaller has a floor. Past a certain point you are getting splashback and a chamber that is difficult to keep clean, and the flavor gain stops. Smallest is not best; small is.
Two specs follow from the compact build. The joint angle is usually 90 degrees rather than the 45 you see on bongs, which keeps the banger upright so the concentrate pools where the heat is. And the joint size is usually 10mm, not the 14mm you would expect coming from the flower side. Check yours before buying a banger.
If you already own a bong and want to try concentrate, a banger will physically fit the joint and it will work. It will just underperform a dedicated rig on flavor, and you will use more concentrate to feel the same thing.
The banger is the bucket you heat. It threads into or sits in the rig joint, you heat it, you let it cool to temperature, you drop concentrate in.
For most people the answer is quartz, and then a thicker-walled quartz banger if you want a longer heat window.
The carb cap is the lid. It is not optional and it is the most misunderstood accessory in this category.
Putting a cap on the banger restricts airflow, which lowers the pressure inside it. Lower pressure means the concentrate vaporizes at a lower temperature. It is the same reason water boils cooler at altitude.
That is the entire reason low-temperature dabs work at all, and it is why an uncapped dab either scorches or leaves half the oil sitting in the bucket. Uncapped, you need real heat to vaporize everything, and that heat destroys the terpenes that carry the flavor. Capped, the same material vaporizes well below that.
Published target temperatures vary a lot depending on who is writing and what they are dabbing, so treat any specific number as a starting point rather than a rule. The direction is what matters: capped and cooler beats uncapped and hotter, on flavor and on how much oil you actually use.
Bubble caps have a ball on a stem and let you control airflow by how far you seat them. Directional flow caps have an angled spout that pushes vapor in a circle, which keeps the oil moving across the hot surface. Spinner caps have angled jets that create a vortex, and they are made to be used with terp pearls.
Small balls that sit in the banger. Airflow from the carb cap spins them, and as they roll they drag the concentrate across the hot surface instead of letting it sit in one puddle.
That is the whole job: keep the oil moving. Oil that sits in one place on a hot surface scorches on the bottom while the top never vaporizes, and you end up with a ring of unused concentrate baked around the edge of the bucket. Pearls fix that, and they are the cheapest meaningful upgrade in this entire category.
Pearls are sized to the banger's bucket diameter, not to the joint size. This trips up almost everyone, because joint sizes and pearl sizes are both given in millimeters and they have nothing to do with each other. Your rig might be 10mm at the joint and take a banger with a 25mm bucket. A 10mm pearl is not for that rig; it is a valve marble for a completely different setup.
Measure across the inside of the bucket. Then:
The target is roughly thirty percent of the bucket floor covered, and never more than half.
Too few pearls and the oil still pools between them. Too many and they jam against each other and stop moving, which defeats the entire purpose. In a small bucket, two 4mm pearls is the ceiling. Add a third and they lock up.
If you only have smaller pearls than the chart calls for, adding more of them gets you partway there. Three or four 4mm pearls in a 25mm bucket approximates two 6mm.
Terp pillars are rods rather than spheres. They sit in the chamber and cover more linear distance than a ball can, which makes them better in oversized or oval buckets. One pillar often replaces two or three pearls. If your large flat-top keeps leaving a ring of unvaporized oil around the edge, this is the fix.
Valve pearls and marbles, in the 10mm to 20mm range, are not bucket pearls at all. They sit on top of the chamber on a terp slurper or control tower. If a listing shows a pearl that size, that is what it is for.
Quartz is the standard and is what most people should buy. Ruby and sapphire hold heat longer and cost considerably more, which matters if you take long draws and matters very little otherwise. Silicon carbide holds heat the longest of the common options.
A nectar collector inverts the whole rig concept. Instead of putting concentrate into a heated bucket, you heat a tip and bring it to the concentrate.
It is shaped like a straw. A tip at one end, a body in the middle, a mouthpiece at the other. You heat the tip with a torch, let it come down a few seconds, then touch it to concentrate sitting in a dish and inhale as it vaporizes.
The appeal is control and waste reduction. A banger vaporizes everything you dropped in it whether you are ready or not. A nectar collector only vaporizes what the tip is touching, so you take exactly as much as you want and the rest stays in the dish. It also means no loading, no timing the banger, and far less to set up.
Tips come in the same three materials as bangers and behave the same way. Quartz is the standard and gives the cleanest flavor, heating and cooling fast. Titanium is essentially unbreakable and holds heat far longer, at the cost of a metallic note that has pushed it out of favor with flavor-focused users. Ceramic holds heat with good flavor but is slow to heat and easy to crack.
Tips are removable and interchangeable, so one body can run all three.
Formats:
The safety part that most guides skip: the tip stays dangerously hot for a minute or more after you use it, and you are holding it in your hand rather than setting it on a rig. Use a glass stand or a quartz tray. Setting a glowing tip down on a table is the most common way people damage both the tip and the table.
There is an electric version of this device, covered in the electronic section below. It is the same idea with the torch removed.
Two ways to get the banger hot. They are direct alternatives, so decide between them rather than treating one as an upgrade path.
A butane torch is cheap, portable, and takes ten seconds. It is also entirely dependent on your timing. You heat the banger, then wait for it to come down to temperature, and the wait is a guess unless you are using a temperature reader. Heat too little and the oil pools; heat too much and you scorch it and taste it. Butane runs out, refills cost money, and you are handling an open flame near glass.
An e-nail replaces the torch with a heating coil that wraps the banger and a controller that holds a set temperature. You pick a number, it stays there, every dab is identical. No guessing, no waiting, no butane.
The trade is that an e-nail costs substantially more up front, needs a wall outlet, and ties you to a coil that fits your specific banger size. It is a stationary setup.
Torch if you are starting out or you want portability. E-nail if you dab daily and you are tired of guessing.
Two numbers show up on every glass listing and both of them decide whether parts fit.
The joint is the ground-glass connection where the bowl or banger meets the piece. Three sizes cover essentially everything, and which one is standard depends entirely on what kind of piece you are holding.
On bongs and flower glass, 14mm is the standard. Nearly every tube and beaker on our shelf is 14mm, and it has the widest selection of bowls and downstems available to fit it. 18mm shows up on larger tubes and moves more air.
On dab rigs, 10mm is what you will actually find. This surprises people who know glass from the flower side. The reason is that the rig category moved to compact pieces, and compact rigs are built at 10mm. A smaller joint means a smaller banger and a shorter path, which keeps the vapor dense instead of letting it thin out across a big chamber. Full-size rigs still run 14mm, and a bong pulling double duty will take an 18mm banger fine. But if you are shopping rigs today, expect 10mm and buy your banger and cap to match.
A labeling quirk worth knowing: 18mm and 19mm are the same joint. Shops and manufacturers use the numbers interchangeably. If a listing says 19mm and your piece says 18mm, they fit.
Every joint is one or the other, and they have to be opposites. A female joint receives the part. A male joint slides into it. Two females will not connect, and neither will two males.
There is a rule underneath this that makes the whole thing easier to remember: the piece is almost always female, and the thing you put into it is almost always male. Bongs have female joints and take male bowls. Modern rigs have female joints and take male bangers.
That is why female bowls are rare. A female bowl only exists to fit a piece with a male joint sticking up out of it, and very few bongs are built that way anymore. If you walk into a shop and ask for a female bowl, expect a smaller selection and expect to pay for it. Same goes for female bangers, though those are somewhat easier to find because a few rig makers still build male.
The practical version: look at your piece before you buy anything. If the joint is a hole you can drop something into, it is female and you need a male part. If it is a nub sticking up, it is male and you need a female part. It takes five seconds and it saves a second trip.
If you do not have calipers, use a penny. A penny is about 19mm across.
Lay it over the joint. Full coverage with room to spare means 10mm. Roughly three quarters covered means 14mm. Covered with a slight overhang means 18mm or 19mm.
Before buying a bowl, banger or downstem you need three things: the size, the gender, and the angle. The angle is usually 45 or 90 degrees. Bongs mostly run 45, rigs mostly run 90. Adapters exist for every combination and they work fine, but they add height and one more joint to break.
Vapes and Electronic Devices
From disposables to rechargeable vaporizers and batteries, find the device that fits how you smoke. Shop e-rigs, vaporizers, and 510 batteries with delivery in Miami.
Everything above runs on a flame. Everything below runs on a battery.
That is the only real difference, and it is worth saying plainly because the marketing around this category tends to suggest electronic devices are a different activity. They are not. An e-rig is a rig. An electric nectar collector is a nectar collector. What changed is that a heating element and a temperature controller replaced a torch and your judgment about when the quartz has cooled enough.
What you gain is consistency and not carrying a torch. What you give up is simplicity, since every one of these has a battery to charge and a part that eventually wears out.
This is the one device on the page with no glass equivalent, because it does something a pipe cannot: it heats flower without burning it.
Set a piece of flower on fire and it combusts somewhere north of 900 degrees. A dry herb vaporizer holds it at a few hundred degrees instead, hot enough to release the compounds in it, not hot enough to ignite. You get vapor rather than smoke, a much lighter flavor, and spent brown material at the end instead of ash.
What to expect if you are coming from flower and glass: the draw is different. There is resistance, and there is no ember to see, so the first few sessions feel like nothing is happening. Grind finer than you would for a bowl, pack the chamber firmly but not tight, and draw slowly. Most complaints about dry herb vaporizers trace back to one of those three things.
Two ways to get heat into the flower, and the difference shows up in every part of how a vaporizer behaves.
The practical version: if you are stirring your chamber halfway through, that is conduction and it is normal. If your flavor drops off fast after the first two draws, that is also conduction. Convection costs more and it is the thing you are paying for.
As covered in the dab rig section above, an e-rig is a mini rig with the torch taken out.
The construction is the same: a small glass top holding water, a carb cap, a chamber you load concentrate into, a short path to your mouth. What replaces the banger is an atomizer, a heated chamber with a temperature sensor in it, sitting on a battery base.
What that buys you. You press a button, it reaches temperature in roughly twenty to thirty seconds, and it holds that temperature through the whole draw regardless of how hard you pull. No torch, no butane, no guessing the cooldown window, and the same dab every time.
What it costs you. The atomizer is a consumable. It wears out, it needs swabbing after every session, and replacements are neither cheap nor cross-compatible between models, sometimes not even between generations of the same model. Check that before you commit to a device, because the atomizer is the part you will keep buying.
Presets versus precision. Most e-rigs give you three or four preset heat levels indicated by lights, which is what the majority of people actually want. Some offer degree-by-degree control through an app. If you are not going to use the app, the simpler unit is the better buy.
One usage note that matters: go easy on the water. These hold far less than a bong and overfilling them is the most common mistake, giving you water in the mouthpiece and nothing gained.
Same device as the glass version above, with a battery-powered heating tip replacing the torch.
Charge it, turn it on, pick a temperature, touch the tip to your concentrate, inhale. That is the whole operation.
Why people switch to these. The torch version requires you to judge how long to heat and how long to wait, and getting it wrong means either a scorched hit or a tip that will not vaporize anything. The electric version removes both decisions. It also removes the open flame, which matters if you use one of these regularly or use one around other people.
What you give up. Flavor purists still prefer torch and quartz, and the coil in an electric unit is a wear part. Many electric models also have no water chamber, so the hit runs hotter than a water-cooled glass collector.
Tips are still swappable on most models, so the quartz, titanium and ceramic choice from the glass section applies here too.
A wax pen is a pen-sized battery with a concentrate atomizer screwed onto it. You load concentrate directly into the atomizer chamber and draw.
This is the most portable way to use concentrate and the least flavorful. There is no water, no glass, and a very short path, so the vapor arrives hot. In exchange it fits in a pocket, it is ready in seconds, and there is nothing to set up.
The atomizer is the part that determines everything. Quartz coils give better flavor, ceramic gives more even heating, and both are consumables that need replacing on a schedule measured in weeks if you use the thing daily.
A wax pen is a second device for most people, not a first one. It is what you take out of the house.
The 510 thread is the connector nearly every oil cartridge in existence uses. The name is the specification: ten threads at half a millimeter of spacing. It was never a formal standard or anyone's proprietary technology. Early manufacturers used it, everyone copied it, and it became universal by default.
The practical result is that almost any 510 cartridge screws onto almost any 510 battery, across brands. That compatibility is the entire reason the format won.
One thing the thread does not guarantee: that the pairing is any good. The 510 spec governs the physical connection and says nothing about voltage, coil resistance, or what the cartridge was designed for. A cart built for a gentle setting will taste burnt on a battery running at maximum. It fits, which is not the same as it working.
Voltage controls how hot the cartridge coil gets, and it is the single biggest lever you have over your experience.
Lower voltage gives cleaner flavor, thinner vapor, and a longer-lasting cartridge. Higher voltage gives more vapor, less flavor, and will scorch the oil and the coil if you push it.
Published recommendations vary enough that any specific number should be treated as a starting point rather than a rule, and the right setting genuinely depends on what is in the cart. Thin distillate wants less heat than a thick, terpene-heavy oil.
The advice every source agrees on, and the only rule worth memorizing: start at the lowest setting and step up. You can always add heat. You cannot un-burn a coil.
Upkeep
Nothing on this page performs the way it did when you bought it if you do not clean it. This section will save you more money than any purchase decision on the page.
Isopropyl alcohol and coarse salt is the standard method and it works on everything. Drain the water, pour in alcohol, add salt as an abrasive, cover the openings, and shake. The salt does the scrubbing in places you cannot reach. Rinse thoroughly with warm water and let it dry before you use it again.
Commercial cleaners are faster and gentler on your hands, and for a piece with intricate percolators they are usually worth it, because salt can get stuck in slits you cannot flush out.
How often. Change bong water every few uses, or whenever it stops looking like water. Deep clean a bong every week or two depending on use. A bubbler needs it more often than you think because the chamber is small and fills fast.
Swab while warm. After a dab, once the banger has cooled enough to touch safely but before it is cold, run a cotton swab around the inside. Takes five seconds and removes almost everything.
This is the single highest-value habit in this entire section. Residue that gets reheated repeatedly bakes into the quartz and turns it cloudy, which is permanent. A banger that is swabbed after every use lasts years. One that is not gets replaced.
Same applies to nectar collector tips and to e-rig atomizers.
Do not submerge anything with a battery in it. Alcohol on a swab, applied to the chamber, then let it dry completely before powering on.
Dry herb vaporizer chambers need brushing out after every few sessions, and the screens need alcohol periodically. A vaporizer that suddenly draws hard has a clogged screen, not a dying battery.
Atomizers and coils are consumables. When flavor drops off and cleaning does not bring it back, the part is done. This is not a malfunction.
Do not put glass in a dishwasher. Do not use boiling water on a cold piece or cold water on a hot one; borosilicate handles thermal shock well but it is not immune. Do not use a torch to burn off residue in a banger, which is how chazzing happens. And do not use anything abrasive on the outside of glass, which scratches it permanently.
Open Daily · 10 AM – Midnight (2 AM Fri & Sat). Swing by the counter, or send the order ahead for pickup or delivery.